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A Border Town Shaped by the Sea

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McCurdy Herring Smokehouse

(Page 1 of 4) Print Version 

By Edward L. Hawes

Introduction

Drawn from the collections of the Maine Historical Society, Lubec Historical Society, Lubec Landmarks and private individuals.

View of Lubec from Campobello, ca. 1950
View of Lubec from Campobello, ca. 1950
Lubec Landmarks

For as long as Lubec had been Lubec, and even before, smoking herring for markets away had been a leading industry with many ups and downs. It was a traditional process carried out in traditional buildings with traditional tools and implements. There was little change over time, until the last years. This exhibit in two parts explores each of these traditional aspects focusing on the last herring smokehouse in the eastern United States and its collections. Known locally as McCurdy’s, it survived until 1990. Other smokehouses went out of business years before and the buildings were taken down. Today, McCurdy’s Herring Smokehouse is an historic site, sharing with the community and the larger public the heritage of this now-lost traditional fishery industry. This makes Lubec the last place in Maine with preserved elements of the one of the most significant and long-lasting waterfront industries in Downeast Maine.

Looking into McCurdy’s in 1986.
Looking into McCurdy’s in 1986.Jacob B. Pike, photo
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In the early Fifties, visitors could buy a postcard with a view looking over to downtown Lubec from the island of Campobello on the Canadian side. The waterfront landscape was densely crowded with smokehouses, sardine canneries, lumber and coal businesses out on the wharves. Among them, close to where School Street came down to meet Water Street a bit left of the center of the photograph, was the smokehouse operated at the time by Garnett L. Green. The smoke rising from the buildings meant herring were being processed. In 1959 Arthur McCurdy, acquired the “stand,” as people termed the complexes of buildings needed for producing smoked herring. It is his family name that became firmly associated with it, right until today. Here, as was the case in other smokehouses in the area, this food preservation process was carried out in traditional fashion. Arthur’s son, John, continued to carry out this process, even after the others closed, right up to 1990 when his “stand,” too, ceased operation.

“Handing up” in the smokehouse
“Handing up” in the smokehouseFrank Van Riper, photo
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The first section in Part I considers implications of the word “traditional”. There is continuity of forms of architecture, work space, tool and process. Transmission of knowledge and understanding takes place by seeing, hearing and doing. An important part of this story is the folk or vernacular architecture that defined traditional space for carrying out the process.

In the second section in Part I six steps involved in this food preservation process are shown. A long-time seasonal resident of Lubec, Frank Van Riper, made a number of photographs of people and their work at McCurdy’s the last year of operation. A few of these will serve to introduce what was done to the fish to transform them for the market.

Part II is a Web-based “museum” of the tools and implements used in this process. Some of the tools and implements are in Lubec Landmarks collections. However, two, for interesting reasons, are not. Most are “traditional” with deep roots in the history of the industry not only in Lubec, but anywhere where herring were caught and smoked. There is another aspect that is caught in the phrase, “tradition accommodates innovation.” At least two labor saving improvements were adopted in the early 1970s that need looking at.


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A Traditional Fishery Industry
This exhibit takes an historical approach that may be unfamiliar to some, looking at the industry as an example of folk culture with deep roots. Smoking herring was a traditional process. That does not mean “old-timey” or “easy to do,” by any means. McCurdy’s in Lubec serves as the example to demonstrate what was involved, and the tools and implements used. The industry could not have carried on without the accumulated understanding that was passed from generation to generation, a major theme of the exhibit. Another major theme is continuity, persistence of old patterns of buildings, tools and technique.

Looking at Material Folk Culture
As long ago as the late Sixties, Henry Glassie called upon historians, folklorists and geographers to look at things from the past in a new way. High style architecture and the decorative arts had their place. But to really understand the world, it was necessary to look at traditional culture, the ordinary houses and barns, the chairs and tools that ordinary people created, worked in and with. The patterns in material folk culture needed to be uncovered. One way to uncover the patterns was to look at what people had made in the course of farming, fishing, making furniture, cooking and preserving food; things they thought were “traditional.” The complementary way was to look for evidence of continuity in “early reports in print” of the things and activities. (Pattern, p. 4). Much of my work through the years has been guided by this approach. For this exhibit, Ansley Hall provided the evidence of continuity in the traditional culture of preserving herring by smoking.

How to string herring:
“The herring is taken with its back in the palm of the right hand, the stick being held by the blunt end in the left hand; the left gill-cover is then raised by a movement of the right thumb and the pointed end of the stick is inserted and passed through the mouth, the fish being moved down to its proper place.” (Hall, 459).

“Hanging” the herring
This “requires the services of at least two men. . . . One man stands in the ‘bay’ with his feet on the beams, while the other stands on the ground or floor and hands the sticks of herring up to him, two at a time, keeping the sharp end of the stick downward so that the herring will not slip off.” (Hall, p 460).]

“Spudger:”
“An implement made of a thick piece of board a few inches wide and about 10 inches long and nailed in the center to the end of a wooden handle.” (Hall, p. 458).

Herring Sticks: Chicken or egg?
“The size of the sticks as they come from the mill is one-half inch square . . .. After being cut into lengths of 3 feet 4 inches each, the edges taken off, and one end sharpened, they are ready for use.” (Hall, p. 455). To us they present a classic chicken and egg problem. Which came first: The traditional length of the sticks, 40”, or the width of the “bays” in smokehouses? Hall stated that the bays were 38 inches wide without raising the origin problem.
(P. 455).

John McCurdy Remembers
In 1969 Arthur McCurdy bought some of the carts on the Canadian island of Grand Manan where there used to be many herring smokehouses. Thereafter, he and his son had them fabricated at their smokehouse. Approximately twenty-five were needed when the brining tanks were full, and “stringing” was going on full tilt. John McCurdy had the pump and hose installed in 1974, along with a requisite three-phase electrical service. It was a system used at canneries, and he found it wise to adopt it. The herring carriers could be unloaded quickly and back to the weirs for another load. The increased amount of fish necessitated rebuilding the sluices so they could handle the volume. [phone interview, 4/2/09].





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